Marine processes
Waves do most of the work of marine processes. They erode, transport and deposit material. Waves are created from wind. The size of the wave depends on: strength of the wind, how long the wind blows for (duration) and the fetch.
Transportation (longshore drift)
Longshore Drift: This is the process of waves moving (transporting) material (load) along a coastline.
Swash: The waves breaking and traveling up the beach carrying load. Waves will break and the swash will travel in the direction of the wind.
Backwash: The waves returning to the sea with load. Waves will take the shortest possible route back to the sea (gravity).
Longshore drift only happens when the waves hit the beach at an angle. It is the process of the swash transporting material up the beach at an angle and the backwash returning directly under the force of gravity that causes material to be transported along the beach.
Swash: The waves breaking and traveling up the beach carrying load. Waves will break and the swash will travel in the direction of the wind.
Backwash: The waves returning to the sea with load. Waves will take the shortest possible route back to the sea (gravity).
Longshore drift only happens when the waves hit the beach at an angle. It is the process of the swash transporting material up the beach at an angle and the backwash returning directly under the force of gravity that causes material to be transported along the beach.
Prevailing (or dominant) Wind: This is the direction that the wind normally hits a coastline.
Groynes: Groynes are wooden or concrete fences (walls) placed out into the sea to stop longshore drift happening.
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